Couldn't make it? Didn't bother? You're in luck! Here's some camera concepts we covered:<span></span><div>.</div><div>.</div><div>.</div><div>.</div><div><div><br></div><div><b>APERTURE</b> - how open the iris is on the lens (like your eye); measured in "f-stop"</div>
<div><br></div><div><i>small f-stop (like f/2) means the aperture is more open, letting in more light (side effect: shallower depth of field--less range of things in focus)</i></div><div><i><br></i></div><div><i>high f-stop (like f/22) means the aperture is very closed, letting in less light (side effect: deeper depth of field--more range of things in focus)</i></div>
<div><br></div><div>............................</div><div><b>ISO</b> - camera sensor's sensitivity to light</div><div><br></div><div><i>low ISO like 100 - needs more light (your picture will be darker)</i></div><div>
<i><br></i></div><div><i>high ISO like 3000 - needs less light (your image will be brighter, but grainier)</i></div><div><br></div><div>.............................</div><div><b>SHUTTER SPEED</b> - measures how long each frame is exposed to light. Measured in the fraction of a second each frame is exposed to light. For most realistic motion blur, the denominator should be approximately double the frames-per-second).</div>
<div><br></div><div><i>Fast shutter speed like 1/100 means the frame captures the image really fast. Less motion blur. Lets in less light.</i></div><div><i><br></i></div><div><i>Slow shutter speed like 1/10 means the frame captures the image in a longer window of time. More motion blur. Lets in more light.</i></div>
<div><i>Unless you want a special effect, keep it at 1/48 if you're shooting at 24 fps, or 1/60 if you're at 30 fps.</i></div><div><br></div><div>.........................</div><div>THE ABOVE THREE CONCERN HIW BRIGHT OR DARK YOUR CAPTURED IMAGE IS, SO IT'S EASY TO GET THEM CONFUSED. </div>
<div><br></div><div>Generally rule of thumb, if you need to expose for a dim image (you want things brighter), change aperture first, but if you must, change your ISO. Keep your ISO as low as possible to avoid ugly grain. Shutter speed does affect the brightness of the image, but it's generally not changed for purposes of exposure.</div>
<div><br></div><div>.............................</div><div><b>Color temperature</b></div><div>How your film captures color, measured in Kelvin. Daylight is naturally more blue than artificial light, like tungsten and flourescent, which is orange. Set your color temperature to 5600K for daylight, and 3200K for tungsten.</div>
<div><br></div><div>..............................</div><div><b>Lenses and focal length</b></div><div>Zoom lenses let you zoom in and out. Zoomed out lens, at like 20mm is considered "wide." Zoomed in lens, like at 120mm, is called "telephoto." Prime lenses have fixed focal lengths, so you have to physically switch the lens for a wider or longer lens.</div>
<div><i><br></i></div><div><i>Wide lens (under 50mm) captures more information in front of the camera (it crams more of the world into the frame). So your subject can go closer to the camera to be framed properly. MORE DISTORTION, more exaggerated distances. Greater depth of field.</i></div>
<div><i><br></i></div><div><i>Normal lens (at 50mm) approximates how the human eye sees things. </i></div><div><i><br></i></div><div><i>Telephoto lens (over 50mm) captures a more specific, distanced image. Your subject has to move farther away to be framed properly. COMPRESSED IMAGE, distances are flattened, but portraits of faces look somehow more attractive. </i></div>
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